| Overview |
A step by step guide to installing an amp in your Ibiza! Most information follows for the Leon as well just different methods of running power cables from the engine bay. |
| Parts List |
5m - 8 awg Red power cable
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| Step 1 - Removing bits of the dash |
There are 2 screws that need to be undone to remove the bottom of the passenger side dash on the Ibiza. These are located where shown. Unclip the wires from the panel and remove.
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| Step 2 - Power wire from the engine bay |
As you look at the front of the car, on the right is the round coolant bottle. Just to the left and below this is a round rubber grommet about the size of a £2 coin. Remove the rubber grommet (shown below) and thread something down into the passenger footwell. You could use the cable but it's a lot of cable to thread through the bulkhead. The easiest tool for this job is a metal coat hanger that has been straightened out. Poke the coat hanger down into the passenger foot well, tape the power cable to it and pull it back into the engine bay.
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| Step 3 - Power cable routing |
Make a hole in the grommet and pass the wire through it. Now pull enough slack through the bulkhead (and grommet) to reach the battery. Don't forget to put the fuse holder in line if its not already! Use the existing clips to route the cable across to the right of the engine bay and forwards to the battery. See previous picture.
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| Step 4 - Remote wire |
The remote wire needs to go the ISO connector
on the back of the stereo. NB : There is a ribbon cable that connects to the front panel - unclip this! Once the front panel is off unscrew the four retaining screws and pull the stereo unit forward. Unclip the wires at the rear and remove the unit. The remote wire needs to go to pin 3 shown in this picture. You can tell which one it is as it is the third wire from the edge and is the black wire. The best way to tap into this wire is to cut the wire and then crimp both ends back together with your remote to the amps.
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| Step 5 - Wire routing |
Route the remote and the power cable along the passenger side of the car by removing the trim and threading the cable along to the boot. The trim has a few screws so ensure these are removed before pulling the side trims upwards HARD - they do come off eventually. |
| Step 6 - Ground point |
There are many points in the boot that you could use, just ensure that a good metal to metal contact is possible. I used the bolt on the drivers side seat beltIf there is any paint between the ground ring lug and the metalwork of the car then take a piece of emery paper to the paint until you are down to bare metal. Once bolted in a small amount of grease around the metal will prevent any corrosion.
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| Step 7 - Speaker connections |
To wire up the hi level inputs to the amplifier use small spade terminals on the end of some normal speaker wire and slide them over the rear speaker connectors.
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| Step 8 - Finishing off |
Put the console back together and then connect up the amp. Fit the fuse and test the results of your handy work. NB : ensure the amp is turned down to its lowest gain to start with and work the levels up. A good starting point is to set the stereo to the loudest you will want it (just before distortion starts) and bring the amp levels up to suit.
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| Conclusion |
I am using 2 cheap 10" subs in a sealed box with a 2x200 watt amp running them bridged at 2ohms and the results sound great. With a bit more money spent on the subs this would sound even better. Bass isn't for everyone so new front components may be the first move for other people (it will be one in the near future for me). Enjoy. |
| Thanks |
Russel ( Smithrc ) |
